04.28Lesotho: The Kingdom In The Sky
This past weekend, Nate and I traveled to the tiny landlocked country within South Africa called Lesotho (pronounced Le-soo-too). The trip was nothing less than a real African adventure!
Called “The Kingdom in the Sky,” Lesotho is a spectacularly rugged, mountainous country populated by a hardy people, the Basotho, who live in isolated communities too small to be called villages. Having never been colonized, Lesotho boasts a culture mostly free of Western influence. Even in the more urban areas, of which there are very few, the Basotho wear traditional heavy wool blankets tied at the neck, muck boots and funny-looking Basotho hats worn by tribesmen in the more remote regions of the country.
We stayed at Malealea Lodge, a unique model of guest accommodation in that it helps the locals in many social projects. Among the ways that it has had an impact on the community, the lodge helps raise money for the local school; hires and educates local guides for treks; runs an HIV/AIDS project, an irrigation project and a soil erosion project; offers skills development training and an adult education program; and more. There are numerous walks, drives, four-wheel-drive trails and horse treks from the lodge, which take guests to scenic waterfalls, lovely mountain expanses, ancient cave paintings and isolated villages.
We stayed overnight at the lodge one night before heading on a two-day adventure on horseback. Early Friday morning, we saddled up and, along with our guide Tsepho, rode six or seven hours deep into the mountains, crossing beautiful rivers, passing through tiny villages and stopping a few times to stretch our legs and take in the stunning scenery and expansive sky on what was a gloriously sunny day. It took us both a while to adjust to riding and to learn our horses—and to trust our horses, as some of the descents were hair-raising for sure. I wasn’t so sure about my horse, with a name like Judas…
Our journey ended at a remote village where we deposited our things in a traditional Basotho hut and were taken on foot by another local guide to the base of Ribeneng Falls. That night, we satisfied our trekker’s appetite over candlelight with a portion of the camping food we had packed and climbed into our sleeping bags at 7:30 p.m., as it was already pitch-black dark. Among the sounds interrupting our sleep during the night was a majestic thunderstorm rolling through the mountains, with thunder cracks lasting several solid minutes in length.
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Staying in the village was definitely the real deal in terms of experiencing Africa! The villagers at Ribeneng share life with pigs, chickens, newborn puppies and a donkey roaming around, all of which have to be shooed out of the huts from time to time! There is only one outhouse for the whole village, we had to purify the water we collected from a nearby spring and, no joke, we smashed a couple of pretty big spiders in our hut that night! Proudly, the village rooster announced the morning at first break of dawn, right as we had finally managed deep sleep.
We awoke to a drizzly morning and saddled up, heading home on a different route requiring our horses to navigate treacherous trails and steep ascents and descents down to riverbeds. It rained on us for a few hours, and there were moments of true excitement (or rather fright!) when our horses encountered and had to calculate their steps though particularly muddy or slippery patches. The scenery became even more lush and beautiful with the rain, so the feeling of being chilled to the bone by the wetness was something that didn’t discourage us too much.
After stopping to see San Bushman cave paintings, we arrived back at the lodge where we enjoyed hot showers, the nightly performance by the choir and band formed by the locals to entertain lodge guests, a home-cooked dinner by the fireplace and hours of conversation with a couple we met from the Czech Republic.
Overall, our adventure in Lesotho was a great getaway of a trip. We highly recommend Malealea Lodge to anyone and the overnight horse trek and stay in the village to the adventurous among you! We promise you’ll have fun either way.
We hope you enjoy a taste of the sights and sounds we enjoyed in this beautiful, special place. 3D panos of the village, our hut and the local band performing at the lodge are forthcoming.
Similar Posts:
- 3D Pano: Ribeneng Hut, Lesotho
- 3D Pano: Ribeneng Village, Lesotho
- 3D Pano: Malealea Band, Lesotho
- Malealea Music
- Tar Heels In The Township

What can be said but AMAZING. Great pics by both Rebecca and Nate. God’s grace to you both!
April 28th, 2009 at 7:14 pm
I love that your horse was called Judas…too funny!
April 28th, 2009 at 7:49 pm
Dear Rebecca and Nathan,
It was really great to meet you guys in the Malealea Village. Just like you said – small for a village but big in our memories forever. We also recommend this peaceful place to everybody – definitely a must-go place in the southern part of the black continent. It is just a waste of time and money to visit tourist attractions called cultural villages, go to Malealea – it is a real village with real people who actually live there and don’t pretend anything. I think that when Nate was taking these amazing pics of the village and of their kids, me and Mari were drinking beer with their fathers and grandfathers in the Malealea Bar. We had to sacrifice a whole box of cigarettes and a couple of beers for them but they rewarded us with great local stories, big smiles and simple human conversation that is so hard to find in our western and sometimes spoiled world.
Nate – amazing photos. Rebecca – great audio. You guys have motivated me a lot and I am really gonna try to create a blog or a web-page to share our stories too. It was really nice talking to you and I hope to see you in Barcelona one day. We will try to offer you as good hospitality as we received from Basotho people in Malealea.
Looking forward to hearing from you and also to reading new stories on your blog.
Hugs from Spain,
Zdenek and Mari
April 29th, 2009 at 9:06 am
@ Zdenek: Hi guys! So glad to hear from you and to know you made it back safely to Barcelona. (For our readers, this is the really cool Czech couple we met). Zdenek, we love your photos and can’t wait to see the ones from your adventures throughout southern Africa. Keep up the great work and don’t ever let anything stop you from pursuing what you love. Your friends, Rebecca & Nate
April 29th, 2009 at 11:45 am
Zdenek & Mari- It was really great to meet you guys. We’ll see you in Barcelona some day, and you have your home in North Carolina whenever you want to visit. Excited to see your blog – and I liked the photos I saw on your picassa account.
Hasta la vista,
Nate
May 3rd, 2009 at 4:41 pm
Aloha, I have just uploaded some pics from Malealea at the following web: http://www.picasaweb.google.com/zdenekito2/Lesotho
. Nate – I admire the sharpness of your pictures – that is where I wanna get with my photos too one day. Un abrazo muy fuerte. Zdenek
I just wish we had taken one together. You guys really have to visit us here in Barcelona now
May 4th, 2009 at 8:40 am
Keep up this good blog;great job!
May 22nd, 2009 at 6:05 am